Reviving Our Coastal Bounty: A New Book Review of the Great British Seafood Revival.

Posted by Lydia Unwin on

Reviving Our Coastal Bounty: A Review of Great British Seafood Revival. 

https://fishfocus.co.uk/reviving-our-coastal-bounty-a-review-of-great-british-seafood-revival/

In Great British Seafood Revival, food writer and seafood educator CJ Jackson joins forces with veteran photographer Steve Lee to produce a richly evocative celebration of Britain’s fishing heritage. it is both a cookbook and a cultural manifesto, urging readers to rediscover the wealth of sustainable seafood that surrounds our shores.

The title could not be more apt. This is indeed a revival – a spirited attempt to reconnect a nation with its coastal identity and to challenge the curious contradiction that defines our current relationship with the sea. Britain exports around 80 per cent of its seafood, yet imports roughly the same proportion of what it eats. Through engaging writing and sumptuous photography, CJ and Steve Lee set out to close that gap, inviting readers to eat more locally caught fish, to value the work of British fishermen and to understand the true cost of what ends up on their plates.

CJ JACKSON ‘THE GREAT BRITISH SEAFOOD REVIVAL’(1)

The Heart of the Book

From the opening dedication to the “colourful and dedicated workers at sea and on land of our loyal fishing industry”, the book is suffused with gratitude and respect for those who bring seafood from water to table. CJ’s introduction sets a clear mission: to move beyond the nation’s over-reliance on the “Big Five” species – cod, haddock, salmon, tuna and prawns – and instead to rediscover forgotten or under-used fish such as coley, megrim, ling and witch.

Each chapter focuses on a group of species, from cod and other white fish to shellfish, tinned fish, seaweed and farmed fish. The structure is part encyclopedia, part travelogue and part recipe collection. Between richly detailed essays on sustainability, fishing practices and post-Brexit regulation, CJ includes approachable recipes that celebrate each species’ distinct qualities. A comforting Rösti Potato and Parsnip Fish Pie, Stuffed Megrim from a 1938 Mac Fisheries diary and a majestic Whole Salt-Crusted Turbot are among the standouts. These are dishes that invite both curiosity and confidence, encouraging readers to cook beyond their usual comfort zones.

Writing with Heart and Heritage

CJ’s writing style is engaging, warm and deeply knowledgeable. A former director of the Billingsgate Seafood School, she draws on decades of teaching and research to make seafood accessible without oversimplifying it. She writes as both educator and storyteller, weaving her expertise through anecdotes of old fishmongers, coastal markets and personal memories. Her recollection of eating winkles as a child or learning from retired London fishmongers “Charlie and Ken” at Billingsgate adds a human touch to the factual content.

There is a tangible sense of place throughout. Each page is steeped in the sights and sounds of harbours from Cornwall to Peterhead. CJ’s passion is mirrored by Steve Lee’s photography, which captures not only gleaming fillets and beautifully plated dishes but also the hands, tools and landscapes of the fishing industry. His lens gives dignity to the work of fishermen, market traders and processors whose efforts are so often unseen.

Sustainability Made Understandable

One of the book’s greatest achievements is the clarity with which it explains sustainability. CJ tackles complex subjects – quotas, marine conservation bodies and certification schemes – with patience and precision. She outlines the role of organisations such as the Marine Conservation Society and the Marine Stewardship Council, showing how their ratings guide both chefs and consumers towards responsible choices.

Her message is never moralising. Instead, she emphasises that choosing sustainable seafood benefits everyone: the environment, local economies and, of course, the diner. The tone is persuasive rather than preachy. She reassures readers that sustainability is not an abstract concept but something that can be practised through small, everyday decisions – asking questions at the fish counter, checking seasonal availability and opting for lesser-known species when possible.

Rediscovering Lost Knowledge

A poignant thread running through the book is the loss of knowledge about seafood in modern Britain. CJ laments the closure of many supermarket fish counters and the decline of the high-street fishmonger, both of which have left a gap in consumer understanding. “Children I work with today have no knowledge of many types of seafood,” she writes, noting that they only see “pre-packed cod, haddock, salmon and prawns.” This disconnect is not just culinary but cultural.

Through the Great British Seafood Revival project, CJ and Steve Lee aim to restore that broken chain between sea, fishmonger and kitchen. They advocate buying British fish from local markets, visiting coastal towns and supporting the communities that depend on the fishing trade. Every fisherman, CJ reminds us, supports up to twelve other jobs on land, from net-makers to restaurant workers. To eat British fish, then, is to invest in Britain itself.

Recipes for Every Cook

While the book’s educational elements are strong, it never loses sight of its role as a cookbook. The recipes are straightforward yet imaginative, with a focus on flavour and practicality. There are nods to global influences – Pan-fried White Fish with Chilli, Coriander and Tomato Kachumber, for example – but the heart of the collection remains distinctly British. Techniques such as baking fish in a salt crust or pan-frying in brown butter are explained with clarity, and even complex species like turbot or Dover sole feel approachable under CJ’s guidance.

The inclusion of sections on tinned fish, smoked fish and native seaweed broadens the book’s appeal. Tinned sardines become elegant in Sardine Tin Pie, and tinned mackerel takes on new life in Thai-style Fish Cakes. Such recipes demonstrate that British seafood can be both traditional and modern, thrifty and luxurious.

Design and Presentation

Merlin Unwin Books has produced a handsome volume that matches the quality of its content. The design is clean and inviting, with generous photography and well-organised sections. Recipes are clearly laid out, and CJ’s’s introductions to each species provide useful background for anyone keen to learn more about provenance and preparation.

Conclusion

Great British Seafood Revival is a timely and inspiring work that blends cookery, travel writing and social history into one cohesive whole. It captures a moment when the British fishing industry stands at a crossroads, facing economic pressures and environmental challenges yet offering enormous potential for renewal.

Through CJ’s heartfelt prose and Steve Lee’s evocative photography, the book makes a persuasive case for eating more of what our own waters provide. It invites readers to explore beyond the familiar fillets, to meet the people behind the nets and to rediscover the flavours that have shaped our island identity.

This is not just a cookbook; it is an act of celebration and advocacy. It reminds us that to eat British seafood is to participate in a living tradition, one that connects coast to kitchen and past to future.

CJ’s book ‘The great British Seafood Revival’, is available to order here Great British Seafood Revival – merlinunwin


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